Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim: A 50th Birthday Adventure in the Grand Canyon
March 9th, 2021. A day I’ll never forget. It was the day I celebrated my 50th birthday by running the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim-to-rim. A challenge that’s both physically demanding and emotionally profound, this journey not only tested my endurance but also gave me an experience I’ll treasure forever.
The Start: In the Dark, Chasing the Dawn
I began my run at 5:30 a.m. on the South Kaibab Trail, in the dark and chilly early morning hours. There was something exhilarating about starting in the quiet of the canyon, the air crisp and still, with the promise of an incredible adventure ahead. I could feel the weight of the moment as I descended into the canyon. My emotions ran high as the canyon walls loomed large, almost surreal in the darkness, and with each step, I felt the gravity of the experience pulling me deeper.
After the first hour, I started to notice some headlights behind me—runners or hikers, no doubt on their own journey. I slowed my pace to give way, knowing I was only one part of this ancient landscape that had witnessed the footsteps of so many before me. As the sun began to rise, the shadows of the canyon slowly gave way to the warm hues of dawn. The colors bounced off the rock walls, creating a breathtaking spectacle that made every stride feel like a gift.
The Descent: The Colors of the Canyon and the Mighty Colorado
By the two-hour mark, I was eagerly anticipating my first glimpse of the Colorado River, which I knew was not far off. The terrain underfoot had shifted—what started as a rugged path now turned soft and powdery, making running easier and more fluid. And then, there it was: the river in the distance, sparkling in the morning light. The sight was magnificent, reminding me just how small I was in this vast, wild world.
Crossing the bridge to Phantom Ranch felt like stepping into a different world. The place was still, all the residents still asleep, and the only sound was the quiet crunch of my footsteps on the trail. I startled a few deer grazing nearby, their quiet breakfast interrupted by my presence. I paused for a brief moment to take off a few layers and grabbed a quick snack before heading across the canyon floor toward Cottonwood.
The Journey to Cottonwood: A Peaceful Path
The trail was peaceful as I crossed paths with a few campers making their way to Phantom Ranch for breakfast. The warmth of the morning sun began to make itself known, but the air was still cool enough to keep the run comfortable. As I reached Cottonwood, I was already feeling the pull of the canyon—the steady rhythm of my body in sync with the trail.
From Cottonwood, I continued on to the pump house, my water supply running low. I refilled my bottles and mentally prepared myself for the biggest challenge of the day: the climb up to the North Rim. The heat was beginning to build, and I could feel the weight of the climb ahead. Still, I pushed forward, one step at a time.
The Push to the North Rim: Snow, Ice, and the Cold Battle
As I neared the final stretch of my climb to the North Rim, the terrain started to change again. Just two miles shy of the top, I hit snow. The path became treacherous, and with each step, I found myself post-holing into the snow, struggling to maintain my balance as I ascended. The North Rim is closed in the winter, and the road to it was a stark reminder of how rugged and untamed this place truly is.
I took a short break at the parking lot, where I could feel the cold creeping in. It wasn’t just the chill in the air; it was the realization that I was in the midst of one of the toughest moments of my life. But I didn’t stop for long. I fueled up on calories and began the long descent back toward Phantom Ranch.
Back to Phantom Ranch: A Welcome Respite
At Phantom Ranch, I finally met the crowd of hikers and campers that I’d been hoping to see. The place was now alive with people, the peaceful morning atmosphere giving way to the hustle and bustle of adventure. I stood in line for one of Phantom Ranch’s famous cups of lemonade, savoring the cool sweetness as I refueled for the final leg of my journey.
I was on a mission to meet my husband, son, and brother-in-law, Bryan. They had taken the 8:00 a.m. shuttle the South Kaibab Trailhead to hike down to Phantom Ranch. I had promised myself I’d catch up to them on my way up the Bright Angel Trail, and I was determined to make it happen.
The Final Push: Catching Up and Reaching the Top
It didn’t take long before I saw them—my family, making their way up the canyon. As soon as I caught up with them just after Indian Garden, I felt an energy surge through me. I was no longer alone in this journey, and the sight of my 9-year-old son, full of life and energy, inspired me to push harder. My son and I led the way up the Bright Angel Trail, setting the pace for the final stretch.
The last two miles were covered in ice, making the climb slick and challenging. But nothing could stop me now. With my family by my side, I reached the summit shortly after 6:30 p.m., exhausted but elated. The icy trail beneath my feet felt like a small price to pay for what I had just accomplished.
The Feeling: Accomplishment, Pride, and Gratitude
As I stood at the top of the canyon, gazing out over the vast landscape that had tested my body and soul, I felt a deep sense of pride. It was a moment that was both humbling and empowering. It was the perfect way to celebrate my 50th birthday—a day I’ll never forget. The canyon had shown me both my strength and my vulnerability, and it was exactly what I needed to remind me that age is just a number.
Running the Grand Canyon rim-to-rim-to-rim was more than a physical feat—it was a personal journey of transformation. The sense of accomplishment, pride, and connection to nature was something I will carry with me forever. And as I reflect on this milestone, I know one thing for sure: there’s no better way to spend a 50th birthday than by embracing the adventure of a lifetime.